Saturday, February 4, 2012

Zermatt from a different perspective


Friday, January 20 - Sunday, January 22 2012

One of our very first outdoor adventures in Switzerland was our hike to the Hörnli Hut at the base of the Matterhorn in early September 2010 (wow, it’s hard to believe that was nearly a year and a half ago).  Zermatt, however, is more known as a ski village so we vowed to return someday for winter sports.  And after finding out that it is possible to ski down the glacier on the backside of the Matterhorn—that sealed the deal—we knew we had to take the opportunity to do it.  That weekend had finally come when our friends Mike, Michelle, Travers and Megan were all planning a trip to celebrate their friend’s birthday and we were invited to join in on the festivities.



Zermatt is about four hours by train so we left Friday after work and arrived late, around 10:30 pm.  Dave had the pleasure of lugging our wheeled snowboard/ski bag around Geneva that day on our way to work, and then to the train station (no small feat), but when we arrived and saw the streets of Zermatt were covered in a ton of snow we knew that was out of the question (it was an uphill hike to our hotel and in good weather it would take 20 minutes).  What to do?  We hadn’t stood more than a minute considering our options, when a fleet of electronic-mobile taxis came to the rescue! 



Zermatt is known as a car-free village (to protect the views of the Matterhorn from car emission buildup) and these little electronic taxis are more than sufficient.  To the right is a picture of one we saw the next day.  Believe it or not, we were two of 9 people (driver included) crammed into that thing, plus gear (our ski bag sat unstrapped on the roof and we just hoped it would still be there when we arrived at our hotel).  These things shockingly handle the steep, snow-covered hills extremely well!  We are sooooo glad we took the taxi that night as we were to our hotel in less than 15 minutes.  (And after experiencing a couple walks up to our hotel on the fairly steep hill throughout the weekend, we’re pretty sure it would have taken an hour on foot with all of our ski stuff.) 



Our hotel (more of an apartment actually) was perfect!  It was our first time staying in a studio apartment and we got a kick out of the Murphy beds and how creatively they are used to conserve space.  On Sunday morning we were pleasantly surprised when we realized our balcony had a perfect view of the Matterhorn (it was cloudy on Saturday so we didn’t notice it before then).  The apartment even had a fondue pot available, the perfect Swiss touch, so we had a fondue breakfast on Sunday.








Back to Saturday though – this was our big ski day!  Unfortunately the mountain didn’t want to cooperate that day as most of the lifts were shut down due to high winds.  Waiting for the conditions to clear a bit, we spent the morning walking down to, and through, town.  The snow made the already-quaint village pop with charm.  We captured a few pictures below; hopefully you’ll get the idea. 






We also have to mention the entertaining street cleaning crew we watched at work most of the morning, clearing out the snow from the night before.  Ang says she has found her new calling in life. :)







Extremely disappointed that the Matterhorn Glacier Express remained closed that day, we tried to make the most of it and bought a half-day ticket for the few runs that were open.  It actually turned out to be a great day of skiing/snowboarding because there was a bunch of fresh powder from the night before.  By the time we got up there, much of the powder on the main runs was packed down, but it was still good snow.  We did do one run that was barely touched and had powder up to our knees.  At that moment, Ang wished she had brought her snowboard, as it was pretty strenuous to get through on skis—but at least Dave was able to thoroughly enjoy it on his snowboard, especially being his first time experiencing deep powder. 





The visual setting for the skiing was almost perfect – while it was clear and there were mountainous views surrounding us the entire time, we only got a brief peak at the Matterhorn, which was kind of disappointing.  We did see our first (man-made) avalanche though.  As we were riding the chair lift up we started to hear explosions on the hill opposite of us, across the valley.  Then we saw the helicopter and realized they were dropping explosives for avalanche control (coolest job ever?).  It sparked a pretty big one that we all watched in awe as the snow rushed down the mountain.  Unfortunately it was too far away to get it on film, so you’ll just have to trust us. :)






That night we joined the birthday party crew at an Italian restaurant for a relaxing post-ski dinner.  The food and company were great.  We’ll introduce you to our friends - in the pictures below, from left to right: Travers, (Dave), Mike, Michelle, (Ang), and Megan.  And at the other end of the table, a whole group of new friends that we met that evening.




After our fondue breakfast on Sunday morning we decided it was a good time to head back and enjoy a quiet evening at home in Geneva.  Our last treat of the weekend was to enjoy the scenic train ride through the valley from Zermatt to the town of Visp, before transferring trains to Geneva.  Of course now that we’ve seen Zermatt in both lights (summer and winter) it’s impossible to say which is our favorite - and we’re happy to leave it as a tie… 


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