Monday, March 28, 2011

Berlin

Friday, February 18 - Sunday, February 20 2011

We. Love. Easyjet.  How else can you book 5 round trip flights for less than $1000?!  Yes, that means less than $100 per person round trip to places like: Berlin, Rome, Nice, Budapest, and Brussels.   First on the docket – Berlin!

Berlin is one of those cities we knew very little about when booking our trip.  The more research we did, the more exited we got - so many interesting and historical things to do and see!  We left Geneva on Friday morning around 7am (part of the reason the flights are so cheap) and were in Berlin a couple hours later.  Like most major European cities, the subway system is fantastic so we just hopped on and were in the city center in less than an hour. 

What to do first?  We quickly discovered through our research that Berlin is a museum city - so many that you can’t do them all in a weekend.  We decided to choose a few based on research and recommendations from co-workers living in Berlin.  Our first museum stop was the Jewish Museum.  The claim to fame for this museum is both its tribute to persecution of Jews in WWII, but also its unique architectural design.  While overall it was interesting, we were both put-off a little bit by the architect’s explanation of his “style” throughout the museum.  For example, there is a room in the museum that is all dark except for a sliver of natural light in the ceiling (below left).  The architect basically said he created this room for people to interpret it in their own way.  Come on dude, just admit that you winged it and didn’t know what to do with the room so you cut a hole in the roof and told people to think what they wanted.  The little things aside, it was a worthwhile visit to see and learn about very personal accounts of a dark time in modern-day history—and was our introduction to learning more history about Berlin.  

Shalachet ("fallen leaves") exhibit,
consisting of 10,000 iron faces






 P.S.—They had an odd display of yarmulkes that cracked us up.  Yarmulkes with Batman, Superman, even Friends characters.  The best might have to be “Obamica ‘08”.
 



Next stop – Checkpoint Charlie (CC).  It’s interesting because people tell you not to visit CC necessarily, as it will be a letdown compared to other historical sights in Berlin.  But most people are familiar with CC, so we had to do it.  Dave’s Aunt and Uncle Bonnie and Brian visited CC in the early 80’s and snuck a picture while it was still an active guard post – it would be interesting to compare that picture to today’s version, which is now awkwardly out of place (McDonald’s anyone?) and overly exploited for tourism.  It’s great to keep the history alive though. 

 
Our next museum was actually located in a shopping mall.  It was called The Story of Berlin, and it walked through Berlin’s history from very early times (1200’s) up through the fall of the Berlin Wall.  One of the highlights of this museum was touring a nuclear bomb shelter (photo on right) located underneath the mall (that explains the location, huh?).  This shelter was HUGE, having the capacity to hold about 3,000 people (that’s a lot of cots).  It was one of a handful of active shelters in Berlin and is still maintained today, just in case…


The next morning we experienced yet another style of museum, The East Side Gallery, which is a long stretch of the original Berlin Wall that was transformed into a canvas for numerous painters (painted after the fall, not during Soviet occupation).  Most of the art was a little too abstract for us, but below are some notable/famous pieces. 







On the subject of the Wall, one interesting exercise you can’t help avoid in Berlin is trying to determine which is former East Berlin and which is former West Berlin.  We learned an interesting fact – the streetlights today still mark former East and West Berlin.  Look at the difference between the green and red lights in the pictures below.  The more cartoony-looking lights (the green man with the hat and the red man with his arms outstretched) are still in place in former East Berlin.  West Berlin had their lights switched out with the standard design for all of Western Europe. 


Ang in East Berlin


Ang in West Berlin






  
Recently we’ve been more and more interested in river cruises.  They are a perfect way to see a lot of sights from a unique angle and in a relaxing way.  We heard that Berlin is an excellent place for such a river cruise.  The only problem?  We didn’t come across a tour in English.  “Oh well, we’ll try it out anyway.”  For future reference, we definitely recommend river tours in a language you can understand… but the views were great! 



Before we rushed to get on our river tour we stopped quickly at the Berliner Dom, a huge Cathedral.  We wish we could have spent more time there – it was one of the most impressively ornate Cathedrals we have seen to date.  Don’t miss it if you are in the area. 



Grounds of the Nazi Headquarters

The next museum was probably the most disturbing one in Berlin.  It’s called the “Topography of Terrors”, which was constructed on the remains of the Nazi and SS headquarters.  It gave a chilling account (including actual photographs) of the timeline leading up to, throughout, and the aftermath of the Nazi regime.  We were astounded to learn that many of the people involved in the heinous acts against innocent people were never prosecuted or were released early from prison (after 5-10 year sentences, for example).  Appalling.
  
On a lighter note, the Pergamon Museum was our last museum of the trip and had nothing to do with Berlin or its history.  This museum contains ancient artifacts, most notably a Pergamon Altar which was built in the first half of the 2nd century BC, excavated in the late 1800’s in Turkey, and transported piece by piece to Berlin in the early 1900’s to be reconstructed in the present-day museum.  That must have been really difficult…  We also saw the Market Gate of Miletus which dates from around 120 AD and the Ishtar Gate which once lead to the inner city of Babylon, constructed around 575 BC.  It was mind-boggling to see these huge structures in remarkably good condition, considering how ancient they are.



Pergamon Altar - 2nd Century B.C.
A model of the full altar
 

Market Gate of Miletus - circa 120 A.D.
Ishtar Gate to Babylon - circa 575 B.C.

 


We also saw a few notable monuments and points of interest around the city.  The first was the Daimler-Chrysler tower.  Known as one of the better viewpoints of the city, we went to the top and indeed were granted an incredible 360 degree view of Berlin.  Next was the Holocaust Memorial, which consists of thousands of uneven cement blocks that you can walk around and through (almost like a maze)—while walking through the middle of it, it was so eerily void of any sound, even though the monument itself is in the middle of a bustling city.  We also checked out the Brandenburg Gate which has been a notable symbol of Berlin (and the whole country of Germany) since it’s construction in the 1700’s—it now stands as a monumental entry point of that part of the city.  Lastly, we walked over to the historical German parliament building, the Reichstag, a key landmark in the rise of the Nazi party.


Holocaust Memorial

 
Brandenburg Gate

The Reichstag


Berlin isn’t all about museums and monuments though—the food is spectacular!  Our first stop in Berlin was to try out the famous Currywurst, which is German sausage in a special tomato sauce with curry powder sprinkled on top.  Yum.  Our first night we went to a fantastic Italian pizzeria which was located in an old building under the train tracks—delicious food, great service and what a wonderful atmosphere.  Berlin is also known for their breakfasts.  As you can see from Ang’s expression, the anticipation is half the fun!  Our last night in Berlin we visited a “traditional” German restaurant; less touristy and what the real Berliners eat.  While the food we amazing, we’re pretty sure eating a huge plate full of Weiner Schnitzel (breaded and fried veil) every night is not the healthiest thing to do.  The best part of the evening was the waitress who knew we were tourists and showed us the ropes to ensure we got a “real German experience”.  We were first greeted with a “welcome beer”, received great suggestions on what food to order and then she brought out a complementary after-dinner Schnapps shot for each of us, as it is a “German custom” she told us.  She sat down at our table to take one, too—all 3 of us gagged afterward, but well worth experiencing customs! :)


We had a great time in Berlin, regardless of the fact it was freezing cold while we were there (low 20s without factoring in the severe wind chill).   We were too stubborn to be hindered by the cold, though—too much to enjoy to stay indoors the whole time!  If you are a 20th century history buff and ever have the opportunity to visit, we recommend you spend a few days to soak it all in.


Sunday, March 20, 2011

Alpine Skiing

Saturday, February 3  &  Saturday, February 12 - Sunday, February 13 2011

Yes, skiing, not snowboarding.  Since Ang taught Dave how to snowboard a few years ago, he has pledged his love to snowboarding and vowed to never need to ski.  Despite that vow, Ang has relentlessly pressured Dave into trying skiing again (he had a less than stellar experience earlier in life).  She skis & snowboards and felt strongly that Dave should have the joy and flexibility of doing both, as well.

But the past few years Dave has been minding his own business and enjoying snowboarding, not bothering anybody.  Yet finally, he weakened and decided, “Ok fine, we’re in the Alps, when is a better time to try out skiing?” 

Additionally, Ang became the proud owner of some skis crafted more recently than 1995 (she’s been skiing on the same pair since 7th grade… when we took them into REI for a tune-up a couple years ago, the technicians laughed and told us they hadn’t seen Salomons with that underside pattern in years-- haha).  So right before moving to Geneva, a friend happened to be selling a pair of skis which were the perfect length for Ang.  (Thanks again, Tracy!)  Ang has officially entered the world of “shaped-skis”.  Woohoo!

So, it made perfect sense for Dave to try skiing while Ang tried out her new skis!

The first experiment was the first weekend in February.  We went via the Geneva Ski Club at Le Grand Bornand, in the French Alps.  As a side note, the snowfall in the French and Swiss Alps this year has been pitiful – therefore lots of man-made snow has been needed.  Le Grand Bornand was no exception.  If you have to find one good thing about the lack of precipitation, it’s the fact that the days are amazingly clear, sunny, and the views are extraordinary. 
 
Another bonus of skiing in the Alps is the alpine restaurants and delicious beer on the top of the mountain.  Ang missed out on the last ski trip (needed to work that weekend) but was not to be denied this time out. 


Aside from the less-than-desirable snow conditions— we both gave skiing two thumbs up.  The mountain had a lot of variety of runs, Ang really enjoyed her new skis (as far as she could tell in the icy/slushy conditions) and Dave only had two big falls.  In fact, he did incredibly well on his “first” day; he was skiing down the red slopes by noon (Europeans define red runs as in between blue and black) and even tried a couple jumps (kind of).  Who knew skiing could be this fun – we should do it again! :)

Have we told you about the Geneva BuyClub yet?  If you’ve heard of Groupons in the States, it’s pretty much the same thing.  A business puts out an offer through the BuyClub, usually 40-60% off the face value of the item (which is often a restaurant, service or entertainment).  These offers are distributed via a daily BuyClub email (which we subscribe to).  So, when we saw that the ski lifts at the world-renowned Chamonix ski destination in France were selling at half-off, we decided to jump all over it.  So did 3 other couples at Expedia—and we all organized a trip for the weekend after Le Grand Bornand. 

There are a couple ways to get to Chamonix from Geneva.  It’s about 45 minutes away by car, but obviously you need a car to do so.  Otherwise you can take the train and get there about 2 hours later, which we did.  We left early Saturday morning and arrived ready to hit the slopes around noon.

Yes, Chamonix was also a victim of lack of snow, but also offered stunning views on a clear day (looks fake doesn't it?).  We know the burning question on our ski-enthusiast friends’ minds—how do the slopes at Chamonix compare to the rest? ...Honestly?  Hard to say—there are numerous ski hills in the Chamonix Valley, and we obviously only experienced one of those.  But comparing that one piece of Chamonix to what else we’ve experienced so far?  We would rank it below Le Grand Bornand and Dave would even put them both below Megeve.  Crazy to say?  Maybe.  Maybe it was just the conditions though because at Chamonix we didn’t really venture away from the blue runs due to the comfort level of the group we were in and the ice patches.  Don’t get us wrong; it was still a great time.  Maybe we’ll try it again next year and give an updated report.  

Unlike our other ski trips, we decided to spend the night in Chamonix and make a weekend out of it with the group we traveled with.  The next day we decided to take a train up to Mer de Glace, the largest glacier in France (7kms long and 200m deep).  An added attraction to the glacier is the ice caves that are carved each year for people to walk around in (man-made).  The train brings you to a lookout point to view the expansiveness of the glacier and how it curves around the adjoining mountains.  As we took our photos and looked closer, to our surprise there were people skiing down the glacier (click on the upper-right photo to zoom in)!  What?  We looked it up later; apparently it’s a popular tourist activity to ski the famous Vallee Blanche.  Hmmm, maybe next time—although we imagine it’s not cheap.

The ice caves were quite impressive as well.  But before you get there, you must take a gondola ride down and then descend an additional 350 steps.  (As you can see in the photos, the Vallee Blanche ski route ends at the ice caves and the worst part would seem to be lugging all your ski gear back up the 350 steps!)  There’s just something about being inside a glacier, looking at the ice and particles of rock buried in the walls that were frozen there thousands, if not millions, of years ago.  Interesting to think about.



Of course no Alpine peak would be complete without a restaurant / hotel at the top.  This particular one, The Montenvers Hotel, was built in the early 1900’s and its rooms are open in the summer months.  They do however serve food year-round and we had some delicious cream of vegetable soup, and of course the traditional Alpine beer.

As we sit and write this post on a sunny, 60-degree afternoon in March we realize that skiing opportunities this year have probably come to an end.  It was fun while it lasted and enough to keep us looking forward to a (hopefully) better winter next year…